Soaking and pressing them as if they were on paper again makes the safest solution. On stamps that I'm not afraid of damaging, I have had good success with clean water and cotton swabs. Moisten just the hinge and around it, let it set, and it should peel up easily.
Wayne, There are a few issues in US collecting that you want to be cautious of: the Postage Due's (J's many will bleed the "fugitive" ink into the water and the stamp paper, turning them pink), and Parcel Post (Q's) and a scant few here or there. Everything else is generally fine. While you will get lots of "tips" on this no doubt, I suggest the following: Use a small bowl, preferably rectangular about 4" wide x 6" long and 3" deep. Put about 1/2" cool water in the bottom of the bowl. "Float" the stamp on the surface. After 3 - 5 minutes, the hinge will already be gone (unless it's really heavily hinged, or has some other heavy adhesion and potentially fake gum), remove from the water place on a paper towel face up, pat it lightly, then place into Desert Magic drying book (these things are awesome). They have a slick coated surface page, and a highly absorbent facing page. After about 10 minutes, the stamp will already be dry.
I note phil's suggestion, however I would caution against this. (Sorry Phil). But I have seen such methods result in a water stain on the face of the stamp. Surprisingly floating (or even sinking) non-fugitive color stamps in water (on really nasty stuff, I've even left them over night), will soften the worst of glues (even have removed tape this way with reasonable success). I have often done as many as 30 or 40 at a time, even 2 or 3 layers deep in the water, without ever having a damaged stamp (again, make sure you know your fugitive inks).
And even in that case, if I have to soak a J stamp, I use the same dish, clean water (replace it after every round, because it will become yellow with used hinge gum), but with J's, one at a time, and then watch it very carefully, with it floating on the surface, not submerged. At the first hint of a trace of ink pull it out immediately and dry it off. Or, let it remain in the water for 2 minutes or so, then gently see if you can coax the old remnants (whatever they may be) away from the stamp without using force. If they don't come off, float it again for another 30 - 60 seconds. Sometimes if there are 2, 3 even 4+ layers of hinge, this can take a few steps of repeat put it in, take it out, see if it will come off. Be very careful of anything that is resistant, as this is how you can thin or even stick a tong all the way through a stamp attempting to get it lose.
Start with cheap things you don't care about and you have tons of duplicates that are essentially value less, until you become comfortable with the process (2 or 3 times, and you'll have the hang of it). Since this method works well for removing any "junk" from the back of a stamp, be careful also that what may seem like a "heavy hinge" is actually a repair to a stamp, in which case, it may be more prudent to leave it in place, rather than soaking it off. This is particularly true of Private Die.
Other foreign stamps, I would test, or check with others regarding fugitive inks before diving in too deep with them. But most stamps printed post 1950 do not have the fugitive ink problems.
Thank you Scott for the valuable info. - I appreciate it. I also realize that your expertise is centered on US stamps but regarding the information that you’ve sent me - will that also apply to World Wide Stamps or is that a whole different discussion.
Regarding Worldwide: If you have a Scotts Catalogue watch out for "Aniline" Ink/Dye. Netherlands, India & Great Britain comes to mind right now. Do not soak any of these - it is fugitive ink. You will generally find these in the 1800's issues. Also, I always soak "red" stamps by themselves as sometimes they will bleed into the water a little on to other stamps.
Thanks, I’ve heard about using caution on soaking “red” stamps but I was not familiar with Scott Catalogues indicating using caution as well with “Aniline,” etc. dyes.
Comments
with clean water and cotton
swabs. Moisten just the
hinge and around it, let it
set, and it should peel up
easily.
There are a few issues in US collecting that you want to be cautious of: the Postage Due's (J's many will bleed the "fugitive" ink into the water and the stamp paper, turning them pink), and Parcel Post (Q's) and a scant few here or there.
Everything else is generally fine.
While you will get lots of "tips" on this no doubt, I suggest the following:
Use a small bowl, preferably rectangular about 4" wide x 6" long and 3" deep. Put about 1/2" cool water in the bottom of the bowl. "Float" the stamp on the surface. After 3 - 5 minutes, the hinge will already be gone (unless it's really heavily hinged, or has some other heavy adhesion and potentially fake gum), remove from the water place on a paper towel face up, pat it lightly, then place into Desert Magic drying book (these things are awesome). They have a slick coated surface page, and a highly absorbent facing page. After about 10 minutes, the stamp will already be dry.
I note phil's suggestion, however I would caution against this. (Sorry Phil). But I have seen such methods result in a water stain on the face of the stamp. Surprisingly floating (or even sinking) non-fugitive color stamps in water (on really nasty stuff, I've even left them over night), will soften the worst of glues (even have removed tape this way with reasonable success). I have often done as many as 30 or 40 at a time, even 2 or 3 layers deep in the water, without ever having a damaged stamp (again, make sure you know your fugitive inks).
And even in that case, if I have to soak a J stamp, I use the same dish, clean water (replace it after every round, because it will become yellow with used hinge gum), but with J's, one at a time, and then watch it very carefully, with it floating on the surface, not submerged. At the first hint of a trace of ink pull it out immediately and dry it off. Or, let it remain in the water for 2 minutes or so, then gently see if you can coax the old remnants (whatever they may be) away from the stamp without using force. If they don't come off, float it again for another 30 - 60 seconds. Sometimes if there are 2, 3 even 4+ layers of hinge, this can take a few steps of repeat put it in, take it out, see if it will come off. Be very careful of anything that is resistant, as this is how you can thin or even stick a tong all the way through a stamp attempting to get it lose.
Start with cheap things you don't care about and you have tons of duplicates that are essentially value less, until you become comfortable with the process (2 or 3 times, and you'll have the hang of it). Since this method works well for removing any "junk" from the back of a stamp, be careful also that what may seem like a "heavy hinge" is actually a repair to a stamp, in which case, it may be more prudent to leave it in place, rather than soaking it off. This is particularly true of Private Die.
Other foreign stamps, I would test, or check with others regarding fugitive inks before diving in too deep with them. But most stamps printed post 1950 do not have the fugitive ink problems.
Regarding Worldwide: If you have a Scotts Catalogue watch out for "Aniline" Ink/Dye. Netherlands, India & Great Britain comes to mind right now. Do not soak any of these - it is fugitive ink. You will generally find these in the 1800's issues. Also, I always soak "red" stamps by themselves as sometimes they will bleed into the water a little on to other stamps.